Rock Climbing Knots – Alpine Butterfly Knot

May 5, 2008

A few days ago (you might remember) I did a blog on climbing knots. Here is another ‘thank you’ to ABC of rock climbing for linking the following comment to our site. It is such a clear guide on how to tie the Alpine Butterfly Knot that I felt I had to pass it on. However, their descriptive video would not copy so I have put another one on. To see theirs you must go to their site…

The Alpine Butterfly is generally considered to be one of the strongest and most secure loop knots. It is strong, secure, and easily tied. It can be tied in the middle of a rope when you don’t have access to the ends. It can be pulled in two or three directions without distorting, and it can be used to strengthen a damaged rope by isolating the damaged area. These things make the Alpine Butterfly a very versatile and valuable knot to know.

If you are tying the Alpine Butterfly at the end of a rope, you can tie a Stopper Knot to the free end of the rope for added security.


Step 1:
Twist the rope to form a loop.

Step 2:
Form another loop by twisting the loop that you made earlier. This creates two loops which resemble the number 8.

Step 3:
Bring the second loop (the one at the top) down and underneath the rope.

Step 4:
Pass the second loop through the first one.

Step 5:
Pull the two ends of the rope in opposite directions.


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